After three decades in Rimouski, almost half of them in Bic, I am preparing to leave the region. With the imminence of the departure, my wanderings in the village take on a completely different coloring. It’s time to say “goodbye” to people and to the grandiose landscape.
Tuesday, going up the hill towards the church, I meet the beautiful Dove, who, surprisingly, does not have the exuberance that we know her, nor her usual joie de vivre. The city of Rimouski notified M.me St-Pierre that his Cantine de la mer will not be able to open next year at its current location, and he is being asked to publicly announce his departure now.
During this time, the administrative hassles about his Canteen multiply: inspections, complaints, discussions, etc. To the point of harming his work. It’s an exhausted Colombe on the verge of tears who tells me about her troubles. Despite the prizes, the medals, his participation in international events, and beyond the pride that his success brings to the region, the support of the authorities has never really been there.
Opening and maintaining the Chez Saint-Pierre restaurant in Bic was rather an obstacle course for this young chef, mother of three and in love with her region. Also, like many of his colleagues, surviving the pandemic is no small feat.
The first time I heard of Colombe St-Pierre was when I was told that a young woman wishing to open a gourmet restaurant at Bic had been told by the CRD that she should rather consider settling in Estrie. For a region that said it wanted at all costs to persuade young people to stay there, this was, to put it mildly, a very narrow vision. Colombe St-Pierre did not let herself be defeated and, against all odds, she managed to open this restaurant, determined to create regional gastronomy.
I was conquered from the first meals she served me 15 years ago, and I have never ceased to be amazed by her great creativity. There is so much generosity, so much love in her cooking that I’m sure I’m not the only one to find that the delight of a gastronomic experience at Chez Saint-Pierre is like a “taste” of happiness. I sincerely hope that the pettiness of a bothersome administrative myopia will not succeed in extinguishing the sacred fire that inhabits such a talented artist.
Would the situation be different if Chief St-Pierre had a storefront in Rimouski rather than at Bic, which has kept a distinct personality despite the municipal merger? Is there geographical rivalry or even post-electoral bitterness with the Bicoise sector? Until now, Mayor Guy Caron has not shone on any of the Rimouski issues he has commented on publicly (housing shortage, ferry problems, dilapidated soccer fields, etc.).
Does the mayor know the difference between federal politics, always at a distance from his constituents, and municipal politics, which is closer? We can doubt it, his comments always being combined with the vague future, very very simple. I understand that the existence of the Cantine de la mer may upset some people, but if we measure the contribution of the restaurant Chez Saint-Pierre, with its Canteen, to Quebec gastronomy and the influence of its chef beyond the region , I think the math is easy to do. Why couldn’t we simply recognize that excellence has particular needs and that it must be supported concretely?
Of course, there is the war in Ukraine… Of course, there is degradation of the climate. Of course… But seeing a friend cry…
