The eye of the guide, the investigator in search of the best flavors in France, is a bit like Marc Esquerré. He travels with other “critics”, the smallest inns in the country to unearth gastronomic excellence. “We are looking for taste. It is the guarantee of discoveries and rediscoveries of flavors. Zakary Benkhadra, general manager of the guide, defends the neo-Aquitaine territory. “The terroir of the South-West is very diversified. Between the sea and the hinterland, there is a particular richness. »
The Award of Excellence
Wealth and creativity that the guide came to reward in Biarritz. The “Gault & Millau d’Or”, the highest trophy, was awarded to Philippe Etchebest for his new restaurant in Bordeaux: “Maison Nouvelle”. A place that the chef has imagined as his home, “in his image”. In an all-digital era and comments on social networks, he recalls the importance of this award: “Everyone becomes a food critic. For many young chefs, it’s very destabilizing to be judged all the time. As close as possible to the regions, the Gault & Millau Tour seeks excellence, at the cost of rigour.
At 30, Aurélien Largeau is part of the new generation of cooks. He has just won the “Grand of Tomorrow” award for his cuisine at the La Rotonde restaurant at the Hôtel du Palais in Biarritz. A surprise which encourages the young chef and which he explains by teamwork. “I am uncomfortable with the idea of rewarding only one name. It’s a balance, a human relationship between all the teams. »
Place for young people
In gastronomy, attachment to the territory is a cardinal value. Pastry category, Héloïse Château is the new winner. The 27-year-old works at the Lalique restaurant in Bommes, in Sauternes. “I play with instinct and the senses. I am inspired by the region to create my desserts. After receiving her award, the young pastry chef went to the kitchen. White apron put on, she has prepared an enticing creation. “This dessert follows the course of the Ciron. The river starts from the Landes forest, before flowing into the Garonne and the ocean. There are iodized notes with seaweed and more woody tastes with vine shoots. »