Summer is here, the holidays in focus with the desire for a break, in search of the famous letting go, the very one that should allow us to cut the road and give way to stress, to the overdose of information and the injunctions of a daily life subject to performance imperatives and tons of procedures and protocols.
To access this form of well-being, you can throw yourself into reading personal development books, of course. You can also let go for a yoga retreat or cast off to reach the end of the world, hermit style.
But on the occasion of this final chronicle of the season, allow me to slip you a good tip: a getaway to La Roche-l’Abeille, La Gorce mill.
To refresh memories, this high place of Limousin gastronomy opened its doors in the 70s and, since 1980, this institution has been crowned with a star that the Michelin guide faithfully awards to it. Forty years without a hole in the racket! Jean Bertranet, Pierre’s father, even won a second star in 1990.
The magic of the place
So, yes, I grant you, the Bertranet house is nothing short of a scoop, but still, what a setting!
In fact, the magic of the place still operates. On the surface of a pond with still waters, the silhouettes of trees and triumphant vegetation are silently reflected. An immutable peace with “Givernyesque” accents that Claude Monet could have immortalized. A peace just disturbed by the song of birds or the flight of a dragonfly.
This heavenly vision is the one you can embrace from your table, installed on the terrace, right on the bank. Regulars will recognize the magnificent personalized and colorful trays of the Table du Moulin, the bistro that Pierre and Isabelle Bertranet opened in 2010 in the heart of the village.
“During the first confinement, we decided to bring together the two tables, the bistro and the gourmet restaurant, on the same site, at the Moulin, thus allowing everyone, even those who might be intimidated by the star, to enjoy the charm of the places”, explains Isabelle without whom the Moulin would not be what it is and without whom the chef, as talented as he is, would not have been able to maintain such high standards.
Claimed classicism
As for the plates, they unabashedly betray a classic approach, that of valuing the terroir, that of a generous cuisine where you don’t leave the table hungry.
“It’s true that I sometimes regret the frugal nature of the portions and the fashion for droplets which, of course, look pretty on the plate but often do not allow you to appreciate a sauce or a reduction. You can’t sacrifice everything in the name of aesthetics! “, assumes the cook with intact passion.
Thus, on the menu, you will find the house’s “signature dishes” such as this timeless organic scrambled egg with black truffles and its brioche bread stick.
However, classic does not mean flat-out or “soft in the knee”, as evidenced by this beautiful plate around the Breton langoustine of irreproachable quality, available in carpaccio and “tempura” style fries, and accompanied by a fondant truffled cauliflower and diced green apple.
Culinary inspiration
No, tradition does not exclude daring and creativity. Not even that of this tube of leeks with fresh turmeric which nicely escorts seared John Dory aiguillettes, Greek mushrooms and chanterelles and decorated with cockles, gray clams and razor clams. Enough to drown the worries of everyday life definitively in the water of the pond to concentrate on the happiness of this moment, rare and precious, when the day falls on the Mill and the song of the tree frogs rises in the nascent half-light of on a summer evening.
A summer evening when the white linen shirts sparkle, the pearly skins and the mischievous smiles, thus celebrating the joy and the pleasure found around a glass of champagne and a dessert answering to the sweet name of wells of love celebrating the sweet flavors of Juillac raspberries from Mr. Boissieras.
A summer evening as I wish you many during the months of July and August, hoping to see you again at the start of the next school year for new gourmet adventures.
Fabrice Varieras
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