Toulouse. “Keeping the star is the goal”: Clément Convard, the new head of the Cénacle, confides

It is one of the most prestigious tables in Toulouse. Starred in the Michelin Guide since 2019, the Cenaclehas just announced a change at the head of its kitchen.

Thomas Vonderscher, the chef who conquered the star, left the establishment to live new adventures in Brittany. To replace him, the gourmet restaurant has relied on internal promotion: Clement Convard, his second. He opens the doors of his kitchen to us.

He made his scales at Gilles Goujon

Becoming number one in a gourmet restaurant was his dream. Clément Convard made it a reality just 26 years. However, nothing predisposed him to get into the kitchen. “In my family, nobody works in this sector, but I always wanted to do this. It is something that is somewhat innate. I’ve always wanted to orient myself in this,” he explains.

To give himself the means for his ambitions, the one who grew up in the Pink City takes a technological baccalaureate at heavy (Hautes-Pyrenees). He then goes on with a BTS in the prestigious hotel school of Thonon les Bains (Haute-Savoie).

Freshly graduated, Clément Convard made his mark in theAudeat the Inn of the Old Wellthe three-star restaurant in Gilles Goujon. The native of Mills (Allier) will stay there for four years. The opportunity to grow as a professional, but also as a man.

“He’s my chef! He trained me and taught me everything. Whether in the kitchen or in everyday life. Today, I wouldn’t be here without this experience.”

“With Thomas, we worked hand in hand”

The young man has no time to waste. During the annual closings of his mentor’s restaurant, he continues to cook: Saint-Martin in the Caribbeanat the house of Marc Veyrator to Monforte d’Alba (Italy) alongside Bruno Melatti and Yannick Alleno.

It was in 2019, a few months after obtaining the Michelin star, that Clément Convard arrived at the Court of the Consuls and its restaurant Le Cénacle. He joined Thomas Vonderscher’s brigade as a deputy chief.

“With Thomas, we collaborated for three years. We brought a lot to each other. We really worked hand in hand. It was a very good experience.”

He wants to keep the star

Now number one, how does he approach his new role? “There is a bit of everything. It’s pressure, excitement, stress… It’s mixed feelings. Afterwards, there is also pride! It is a set of feelings that can oppose each other. But I have my head on my shoulders and I see it very well, ”says the young man. “Today I went out my entire card. There are very good feedbacks. In the kitchen, the team is happy with what they are doing. So far, there are only positives! »

At the Upper Room, the 26-year-old chef will have the mission of doing as well as his predecessor. “Keep the star, that’s the goal”, he announces full of determination.

“As there has been a change of leader, we will have to reassess everything. If we keep her in January, we can say that she is a new star: that of the team currently in place. It would be really nice to go get her. Clearly, that’s the goal!”

Aware of the difficulty of the task, the student of Gilles Goujon prepares for all eventualities: “If it’s not this year, it will be the one after. The Michelin is complicated. But you have to persevere and be on top every day.”

“We start from a basic idea and we sublimate the dish”

To seduce the jury but also and above all the inhabitants of Toulouse, Clément Convard is betting on a cuisine that is “frank in the selection of products and tastes, while being quite sober”. He also relies on elegance of its dishes, and takes pleasure in “sublimating ‘basic’ products to create refined dishes”.

“Under a bell”, Clément Convard’s signature dish

“We start from a basic idea – pasta – and we sublimate the dish”, explains the chef.

To make his specialty, he molds bucatini (pasta similar to hollow spaghetti, editor’s note) in a half-sphere to form a dome of pasta. Inside, there is a basil cream with grilled and caramelized pine nuts. The top of the dome is coated with a cream based on a parmesan cheese produced in Aveyron: Vieux Rodez.

For this dish, Clément Convard is working on variations: “I’ve already made it with carbonara and black pork from Bigorre. I’m already planning to do it with tomato, then, later, with mushrooms… can really decline! I really like this kind of concept where you manage to change the menu while keeping a base of dishes and finding new tastes”.

For his cooking, the chef tries to use a maximum of local products : “Here, it’s our guideline!” I haven’t found everyone yet, but I want to bring in new suppliers”. Between the fishermen of the Mediterranean, the breeders of Aveyron or the market gardeners of Tarn-et-Garonne, Clément Convard will be (well) served!

Was this article helpful to you? Note that you can follow Actu Toulouse in the My Actu space. In one click, after registration, you will find all the news of your favorite cities and brands.