“Artisan”, “homemade”, “artisan ice cream maker”… some tips to find your way between all the ice creams when summer arrives.
It is time for the first big departures of the holiday and soon the first queues in front of the ice cream parlor windows. As every year, ice cream becomes the undisputed star of the summer. But consumers looking for a good product can quickly get lost among all the mentions of “artisanal ice cream,” “homemade ice cream,” “artisan ice cream bar” or “master ice cream bar” that flourish on brands. Some tips for finding your way in the ice jungle.
The term “craftsman” simply means that you have the title of craftsman and that the business is registered with the Chamber of Trades and Crafts (CMA). It does not impose specifications. The process does not matter: an ice cream parlor that promises “artisan ice cream” can offer ice cream made from raw materials, but it can also sell ice cream made by another company (which has the title artisan) or use ice cream “pre-made”.
“Pressed” ice cream
Instead of a long process of production and development of new perfumes, there is actually a simpler and cheaper method used by a large number of sellers. Italian companies distribute ready-made bases (“premixes”) containing milk powder, vegetable fat and emulsifiers, to which you simply add water or milk, as well as a flavor paste, before passing everything through a turbine. Nothing more.
The term “artisanal ice cream” therefore does not systematically mean that it is very different from industrial ice cream. This does not justify distrust of all storefronts, but it is by no means an indisputable mark of quality. Moreover, the term “industrial” does not mean poor quality in all cases: a company can industrially produce good ice cream with few ingredients in the recipe. This is the case for certain French SMEs.
The same applies to “homemade ice creams”: they are made on the spot, but nothing prevents the use of premixes. The term “master glacier” can also be misleading because it is not governed by regulations. To distinguish professionals who make their ice cream according to the rules of the art, the National Confederation of Glaciers of France (CNGF) recently launched a “quality charter” and a “French traditional ice cream and sorbet” logo to display on the window.
No universal rule
How do you sort ice cream? The first solution is to inquire with the glacier itself. Other clues may attract attention: a very “bloated” ice cream overflowing from its container without melting was probably made from premix. The latter contains gelatin, added to ensure that the product keeps well and allows it to be stored at less cold temperatures, and the manufacturing process incorporates a lot of air during churning.
You should also be wary of bright colors – real uncolored pistachio ice cream is not neon green, but rather hazel – or an abundance of candy or chocolate flavors. But there is no universal rule: good ice cream parlors produce these flavors to meet demand. As for the price, it is not a reliable guarantee of quality, especially in tourist areas. Tasting is the only valid rule.
