GASTRONOMIC CRITICISM – Boredom reigns in the famous chef’s double-star address, located at the Mandarin Oriental Palace in Paris.
The decor oscillates between a tribute to 2001, a space odyssey and the padded cell from which a highly agitated patient would have torn off parts of the wall covering. We enter Sur Mesure, Thierry Marx’s restaurant in a quilted monochrome, conducive to weightlessness. Or drowsiness. And as for your servant, he dozed off.
We no longer need to introduce the leader, recently elected leader of the Union of Trades and Industries of the Hotel Industry (Umih), the union of managers in the sector. He never tires of recounting his life as a petty boss from Ménilmontant, saved from professional crime by the discipline of the army and martial arts; the public is not unaware of much of his gifted and self-taught path with a passion for molecular cuisine that led him to fame and the jury of “Top Chef”, the ultimate initiation that allows the oven trimmers to be recognized on the street as their wealthy customers . We know he designed menus for the idol…
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