It is in the former “wheat market” of the Bourse de commerce, recently transformed into an exhibition space for François Pinault’s contemporary art collection, that chefs Michel and Sébastien Bras opened last summer. , their first Parisian table.
Under the aegis of this father-son duo, ex-triple-starred Aveyron, the wheat market has become La Halle aux grains, in reference to the work they have been carrying out for many years in Le Suquet, Laguiole, on what they call ‘niac’: a combination of grains, seeds or seeds that shake up the aromas to excite the taste buds, giving a dish extra soul or intensity. A touch of madness.
Small tones to awaken the taste
“Niac is an expression that we have attributed to ourselves, confirms Michel Bras to 20 minutes. Niac, you know, to illustrate the point, what is it? It’s the mustard hanger on a pot-au-feu, it’s the sansho on sushi, it’s these little tones that awaken the taste. It is the grain which, grilled, puffed, germinated, infused or fermented, comes to support a vegetable, awaken a juice, liven up a stuffing or will be used as a condiment. It’s a miso of lentils that accompanies a piece of beef, a crust of roasted cumin to refresh a stuffed cabbage, three turns of the mill of sprouted seeds that revive a fish. It’s an extraordinary panel around the grain that we have appropriated. This is our niac. »
When we tell him that we feel good in his restaurant, that we appreciate its clear and refined lines, its plunging view of the Saint-Eustache church, the care given to the decoration, the dishes, the fabrics, before to appreciate the sophistication mixed with the simplicity of dishes with a very accessible taste
, the master of the place replies: “That’s the truth of the kitchen. In one of his books, Philippe Delerm says he finds beauty in the ordinary of things. This idea illustrates the meaning I’ve always wanted to give to cooking: with little, with nothing, you can do beautiful things. »
*Lunch menu at 54 euros. Menus 5 or 7 sequences at 88 or 108 euros. A la carte dishes from 28 euros, starters from 19 euros, desserts from 16 euros. Half-portion and half-price plates for children. Possibility of savory and sweet snacks from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m.
